This week on Most regularly, we’re diving deep into one among our approved substances: tofu. To receive all of this (and further) draw sooner than it hits the win, subscribe to our print magazine.
The Jap dish of hiyayakko will doubtless be exuberant, decadent, even sensual. It is moreover, if truth be told and unabashedly, a chilled block of silken tofu with toppings. (Hiya system “icy” in Jap.)
When silken tofu is original, it could per chance presumably presumably be easy, with a velvety richness, suppleness, and nuttiness in difference to other tofu. Abet when it was once probably, I would most regularly hasten to Hibino in Brooklyn elegant to expend its version of hiyayakko. The home tofu came in a runt glass yogurt jar with two limited spoons for sharing alongside a dish of minced scallions and grated ginger and a decanter of sunshine soy sauce. After I will, I now engage original Meiji tofu in Los Angeles to make expend of as my rotten.
Even ought to that you have to’t receive your palms on original tofu, it’s extra than k. Most most regularly I capture a carton of shelf-stable Morinaga comfy or firm silken tofu from the advantage of my fridge, drain out the excess water, and hump the brick into a shallow bowl or a plate with a lip. With a package deal of shelf-stable tofu within the fridge, you’re going to continuously be spicy to develop hiyayakko. In actuality, you’re already extra than midway there. Dilapidated hiyayakko is if truth be told a pantry dish, and there’s no have to even urged the variety.
In Japan, hiyayakko is on the total mounded with grated ginger and chopped scallions and drizzled generously with soy sauce or ponzu. Optionally, that you have to add a handful of katsuobushi (bonito flakes) for further smoky-savoriness and that signature fluff, or toasted sesame seeds for their nuttiness and crunch. Other outmoded Jap toppings encompass thinly sliced shiso leaf, ume paste (from umeboshi, or salted sour plums), and grated daikon. One in every of my approved summertime hiyayakko is a few pods of original okra chopped crosswise into skinny sections. When drizzled with ponzu and rather toasted sesame oil, the okra gets slippery, a normal Jap texture that’s extra refreshing with tofu.
While hiyayakko is mostly served as an appetizer in Japan, I in actuality luxuriate in made a meal of it between myself and my partner with a bowl of fast-grain rice. After I used to be once unexcited spicy of us over, it was once fun to fragment with a crowd, encouraging a messy hedonism that’s correct for dinner parties; that you have to’t scoop hiyayakko with out making a mess.
A tranquil hiyayakko can hasten in never-ending directions, relying to your mood and energy stage. When it involves toppings, it’s all about contrasts. The premise will not be any longer to mask the tofu (or heaven forbid, smother it) however to enhance its creamy texture, cool temperature, and gentleness. In overall, the toppings ought to luxuriate in a mighty flavor, elevate hundreds of salt or soy sauce, and offer textural distinction. They ought to moreover be piled excessive, personally, in a system befitting a Gibson Girl.
From there, the remaining is up to you. I myself worship the glory of icy silken tofu with warm, delicious toppings and rather crunch. Are attempting simmering handfuls of original cherry tomatoes in mirin and soy sauce unless they are bursting and jammy, then pile them to your chilled tofu with caramelized onions and chopped toasted almonds. Ought to you succor Spanish chorizo readily available, fry runt cubes unless they’re crispy, tipping the total pan—including the unexcited-scorching oil—over the tomatoes correct sooner than you expend.
In spring, if I in actuality luxuriate in leftover original ricotta within the fridge that wants the utilization of, I’ll dollop that on high, cream on cream, and add peas, ponzu, and lemon zest. Within the summertime, I’ll high my hiyayakko with subtle, broiled miso eggplant. To spice up the sauciness, I mix tahini with rather sesame oil, rice vinegar, and soy sauce and pour that on high too. A bathe of toasted sesame seeds makes it comparatively.
Per chance my approved iteration is with garlic minute. It’s no longer outmoded, however it with out a doubt feels treasure a ultimate expression of both my backgrounds, the Jap and Spanish American aspects of me. Grate a wide range of daikon or radish and build a mound of it on high of your chilled tofu, with rather dab of yuzu kosho ought to you’ve some. Pour what looks treasure too powerful olive oil in a heavy-bottomed skillet, receive it piping scorching, and add a couple handfuls of runt or medium minute, some crushed crimson pepper flakes, and as powerful roughly chopped garlic as you’ve the patience to prep. As quickly because the minute has curled and cooked purple, tip them, garlic oil and all, onto the tofu, with some soy sauce.
Accept a spoon and a few chopsticks, distribute the products, and dig in. I promise, it’s a pleasure.
Katie Okamoto is a freelance author primarily based in L.A.